About Author: The Urban Rifleman

Frankengun… 😉

I just finished this AR-15 the other night.  It is literally made out of parts from gleaned from Craiglist, parts I traded for on the shooting forums, hand me downs from my boss, and spare parts from bins…

Thing is… Frankengun shoots like a friggin DEMON!!!  I mean Frankengun gives the Red Gun AR-15 a real run for his money!!!  Testing yesterday with 55 grain and 77 grain loads set to mag length was producing groups that were 1/4 high… horizontal was bad but it was really blasting at the range.  I mean 15-20 MPH winds and I was shooting tight touching groups shooting from a bipod.  That is really quite amazing considering…

Here is the Bill of Materials:

• Rock River NM Two Stage Trigger
• Wilson 20″ 1-7 twist stainless steel barrel
• Float Tube from Dedicated Technologies (http://www.dtechuppers.com/)
• Aluminum CAR-15 buttstock
• DPMS Extended Flash Hider
• DPMS Competition Style Upper Receiver

What makes a “DCM gun” a “DCM gun”?

There are a few basic principles to building one of these rifles that are basically the same, whomever you might be dealing with for your service rifle package.

Barrels

Well, first of all, you would probably have to say the the barrel pretty much does the bulk of the actual work (next to the shooter of course). Match barrels are a very hot topic to the very top-top-top guys, i am not sure it is

All that great big a deal to the expert (or below) shooter. One of the local gunsmiths in my area is very well renowned in the local high power scene, and he said there is a lot of “hype” associated with barrels, and i have tendency to agree. Don’t get me wrong, if you got the money, have at…. Can’t hurt anything, that’s for sure! I am just not convinced that a whiz-bang-barrel-from-hell is going to make as much difference as, say, in benchrest shooting.

1/2 MOA is very common with the ar-15 at the 200 line. With the very heavy bullets, 1 MOA is very common. This is usually associated with colt 1-9″ and 1-7″ h-bar barrels. This was the benchmark point of accuracy in the m-14. Guys would spend $2500 to get an m-1a that would shoot as well as a pretty “basic” ar-15.

Now, what is considered “basic” just depends on who you’re talking too. Let’s assume that you have some sort of starting point to build your ar-15 paper killer. How about we just say you’ve got that colt a-2 h-bar just sitting around, and it does a hell of a number on tin cans with surplus 55 fmj ammo you buy at the gun show. This could be the rifle that gets you to the master’s class. A colt 20″ 1-7″ barrel is said to shoot 69-80 gr. Match bullets very well. My 1-9″ will digest 69 sierra’s at 1 moa. This is better than me (at this point). A 1-9″ will be fine until you hit the 600 yard mark. The heavier bullets should really help for the big leap (even though the 69 sierra was considered to be the heavy bullet-before the days of the 80 gr. Vld). My local club only goes to 300 yards, so, to tell the truth, my 1-9″ would be fine for that distance.

There are those among us who feel that there are advantages worth a few extra dollars (especially when it’s our pride on the line). I have to admit that I feel very guilty sometimes about spending a lot of money on “toys”. (This doesn’t mean that I occasionally deal with the guilt and do it anyway).

When I was in college, my wife and I didn’t have a pot to piss in. I was really into my model airplanes. I was competing every other weekend in the summer (and playing a lot of golf when I was supposed to be in class). There were a lot of guys that were more like I am now, “screw it I’ll just buy something better, rather than spend a lot of time”. In precision aerobatics it was some new engine or carbon fiber tuned pipe, a pile of really light balsa, or some super kit that I could not afford. I really felt that it was a little unfair that I couldn’t just pick up the phone and order a whole batch of new gear every year. Hell, I was happy to be able to buy fuel, much less some custom made engine or super pattern killer!      Well, anyway, I digress….

A few years ago, before my mystery equilibrium illness that led to my early retirement from controlline precision aerobatics, I had a chance to compete at the national level. Not read about it or hear about second hand. I was there, and all the top dudes were there. These guys were good, i mean good, and, yes, the top guys had all the cool gear and all the latest shit. There were about 5 guys that were in a different class, i mean they were out there, and there equipment did make a little difference, but the main thing was that these guys had there fecal matter collated. There stuff was wound. Kind of like when people say that nick price could play a round with a ladies’ starter set and still shoot par or below. There is some serious truth to that! (this coming from a guy who got a big bertha titanium driver for Christmas last year and played 3 rounds of golf this year).

Anyway, there a kind of a coup in the “top five” the year I went to the Nats. There was this guy who used to be a “top guy”, but had been out of the top for a while due to an illness. To describe this guy, let’s just say he didn’t care if you thought he was cool or not. He had decided he was going to kick everyone’s ass. He was taking no prisoners. Anyway, he showed up with an outdated and currently unpopular rig. It was a plane and engine combo that was considered outdated and “not competitive” by the “in crowd”. Well, suffice to say he kicked everyone’s ass without mercy!

In your face! Yah! Take that! Yah! Yah!

It was great to watch, all these guys with their tuned pattern killers getting smoked by a non-conformist straight out chemotherapy. This guy was possessed. He was awesome to watch…

There was another class of guys, that were much more prevalent at the nationals, that were equally impressive. These were the regular guys. These guys ranged from just off the top five to the guys who could barely make it through the pattern without crashing. Most were somewhere in the middle. There were guys that had all the neato gear, and it didn’t make one bit of difference! They still sucked! Conversely, there were a bunch of guys that just had normal stuff and kicked ass. You could tell that there was a class of guy that never sweated the small stuff. He was more worried about burning up his engine from practicing so much. You could tell it from their pattern… Practice makes perfect.

When i sold golf equipment in college i saw it all the time. We had customers that couldn’t break wind with a golf club, but by golly they were fartin’ with a new set of pings. Hey, that’s cool. It was their money, and i was glad to sell them a new batch of clubs every time nick faldo or freddy couples won some big tournament with a new driver or radiated golf ball. I tried every set of clubs in the place. By the time i got fired for being a lazy, unmotivated asshole, i had settled on the perfect set of clubs for me. It was a set of spalding top-flite tour blades i found in a pawn shop for $50. I played blades for the next 4 years until i had to start working for a living. I couldn’t have given my clubs away in a garage sale. The chrome was gone from the faces on my 5, 7 and 8 irons. I hit so many balls the grooves were smooth.

Now let’s apply this to barrels, shall we?

Does the average guy need a $500 dollar barrel to be competitive (at his level) in service rifle? Probably not. It couldn’t hurt, though… I will give you that. If you are master class or high master, it could help to get that extra 1%. There are guys in my club that shoot at high master, and I realize these guys are just good. They are also very experienced. I mean decades of shooting! 100’s of thousands of rounds downrange! Experience is always good. This is the philosophy of our club president. He has reportedly shot some very good scores at Perry with his 1-7″ twist Colt jobbies. This was his recommendation to me. I feel it was a very good one. I just wish I had a 1-7″ H-bar a-2 to start with. Too bad I don’t. Mine is a 1-9″ A-4 receiver (not DCM legal).

i was faced with a total rebuild to even get to that point. I looked at selling my colt, but i like my colt! I looked at buying a new upper. This is good alternative. Dpms is selling their “DCM” upper through midway. This may be an excellent deal at $499 (no tax or shipping). Their barrels are made by wilson. I have heard some of the “top” gunsmiths poo-poo these barrels, but the guy who taught me to shoot high power has an ar-15 that he built (he is some kind of mack daddy m1a builder). This specimen has a ss 1-8″ wilson and he says it will shoot 1/2 moa. He just doesn’t like shooting it. He’s an m-14 guy.

after all was said and done, i just bought an armalite m15nm. Ouch… I talked to armalite and they said they could not divulge their barrel manufacturer. I thought that sucked, but one of the sales reps (monica sipp-she’s pretty cool) assured me that armalite is not in the business of pissing off their high power shooters. She said their barrel will shoot with the best of ’em. I guess we’ll find out.

note: one of my more experienced shooter friends just bought an armalite ar-10, he says this thing shoots insane! He is reporting 1/4 moa! Right of the box! He is reportedly screwing around with the trigger a bit, but other than that it was just slap some 168 sierra’s in her and go… It was this news that convinced me to take the armalite plunge. That and the fact that i found a guy with (2) national match rifles at a gun show.

note #2: one piece of advice. Don’t be afraid to call in a serial # to the oem to make sure that you are getting what the guy says it is. This advice came from armalite! This was confirmed by my dealer who talked about some guy who was buying brand name lowers and building guns. The oem would be shocked to get a warranty job on a rifle, that was never a rifle! This guy was using all kinds of parts to build these guns. Be aware that a $600 match rifle is just too good a deal.

fulton armory is building, what appears to be, a cadillac upper. The kreiger barrel cannot be argued with much (unless you sell the douglass). Be aware of this fact, though, the fulton upper is mostly armalite match stuff. Their 2 stage trigger is also armalite. Their match sights are made in-house and their receivers are government contract mil-spec. I don’t think it sounds like a bad deal though, all things considered.

For the skinny on barrels from fulton go to:

Barrel article #1

Barrel article #2

i cannot comment much on bushmaster or olympic. Bushmaster appears to be first class outfit with some experience at perry. Their uppers are actually made by compass lake engineering, who also does their trigger. Compass lake can build an upper with a kreiger barrel if you want. The price will end up being about the same as the fulton armory. I was actually going to buy a bushmaster “dcm” rifle. Carl, at champion shooters supply (down the street from my house), had three of them that he picked up at perry for a good price. By the time i got the balls to take my money into the store to talk business, he had sold the last two that week! Just my luck, huh…

i talked to just about every ar-15 guy in the country one day, on my day off (i was bored-the weather sucked). There are a lot of guys building some very solid rigs out there. Derrick martin at accuracy speaks uses douglass barrels and these are reportedly excellent. Plan to spend about $800 for a total deluxe “dcm” conversion on your colt.

Some common threads to building a “dcm” gun:

mostly a good rifle in the ar-15 is a collection of the correct parts.  Some are better than others (they say) but it is my contention that competition is the mother of invention.  Good products will be available if there is a demand.  I have heard conflicting opinions on all this add-on stuff (as far as which brand) as to which is good and which is not.   Basically, everyone seems to like armalite stuff across the board.  So, when in doubt, go armalite….

You will need the following to get started.

1.     (1)  24” 1-8” twist bull barrel AR15 from a reputable manufacturer.  Here are a few examples.

AMERICAN SPIRIT ARMS- ASA 24″ Bull Barrel Rifle

HESSE ARMS- HAR-15A2 Omega Match

DPMS Panther Bull 24

ARMALITE M15A4(T)

OLYMPIC ARMS

The main features required are as follows:

1.1.   1-8” twist barrel-length 24” (preferred) to 20” long (good) .92” OD..  The Armalite is turned down to .810” on the end section past the gas block.  This reduces the weight at the barrel some.  You might like this.

1.2.   Barrel float tube (knurled is preferred).  Try to get one with a strap stud on the forend to start.

1.3.   Match trigger (see trigger article everything you need to know is there).  Do not be fooled by the promise of a match trigger from anyone else besides the people I have mentioned.  If a dealer tries to tell you a trigger is “match” and it does not have adjustment screws (JP Enterprises) or an Eagle (rear hammer hook) trigger, don’t you believe it.  Open the gun and look!

1.4.   Chrome bolt and carrier are nice additions, not at all necessary.

1.5.   Everything else is “icing” to start.

1.6.   This rifle should cost between $500 and $1000 with a standard AR15 trigger.  The Armalite will be more with their match trigger.

Godzilla’s take on the current crop of rifles.

Armalite is pretty much flawless from all points (do not like their trigger), but very pricey.

DPMS offers the nicest rifles for the money, their customer service is also very good (****Best buy****).

My ASA is as nice an AR15 as I have ever seen and shoots like stink, but from what I here, the place has gone to shit.

Olympic and Hesse are good rifles. Buy these cheap, very cheap if you can get it.

Leave sleeping Colts lie. I am boycotting Colt anyway.

-or-

1.     Buy a 24” Wilson barrel for your flattop rifle.  This could include an Armalite, DPMS, Hesse Arms, Model 1 Sales, J & G Distributing, Sherluck, etc).  Ask for a Wilson 1-8” twist bull barrel (Armalite will not tell you, but their barrels are Wilson.  I recommend DPMS for warrantee).

2.     Buy a 24” Wilson barreled flattop upper for your mil spec lower (***if your lower is Colt, sell it!  People love those pieces of shit!***).  This could include an Armalite, DPMS, Hesse Arms, Model 1 Sales, J & G Distributing, Sherluck, etc..

3.     If you do not have a lower receiver you may buy one stripped or assembled.  Really, the assembled ones are the better deal.  I saw great looking ones at the gunshows for around $300 before all the Y2K crap!  Now, I have no idea what these things cost (I just paid $200 for a stripped Olympic at the Dayton Gun Show and I am still squeakin’ from the freakin’).  I like the Eagle ARMS, ASA, Olympic, and Hesse (in that order).  I have yet to see the PAW and the new forged DPMS.  Order the small parts kit from Armalite or DPMS.  Avoid the wholesale places for the small parts, it is not worth the $10 you might save.

John has a deal on a finished lower for around $450 with the JP Enterprises Fire Control System (Godzilla approved) installed and fitted!  This is really a hell of a deal.  If you have an FFL in your area that isn’t a prick, maybe you can get a transfer.

4.     Float tubes can be had at the gun shows if you have a parts dealer in your area.  If you do not, order one from Sherluck (pay $40).  Do not pay more than $45 for a tube.

O.K. at this point we should have a rifle of the flattop type persuasion.  Next will be a listing of the modifications or updates that will turn this rifle into a highpower match rifle.  I will try to go from the necessary to the luxury aspects of this update process.  Also, we will go from cheap to expensive.  What you spend is up to you, but the idea here to get shooting with minimal interruption to your hunting schedule!

Updates and Modifications Required:

1.     Absolutely, you have to have a set of sights.  No way around this for Highpower, unless you want to try it like shooting a shotgun.  No?  Well, alrighty then…  Basically, there are five main parts required to set up AR15 with match sights.

Rear sight-this is the part that has all of the adjustments for windage and elevation.  Poor man’s sights used to come from Redfield, but they went out of business.  There really aren’t any poor man’s sights anymore except for Lyman and I am not sure these are worth messing with. The reason sights cannot be super cheap is because of a little thing called backlash.  The indexing action of the sight has to be precise and cannot have any slop.  I put my Redfield International on a dial indicator and it went four clicks without moving, then moved the equivalent of eight clicks in the next two.  This is bad.  Nothing sucks more than putting adjustment on the sight and nothing happens, or three times as much happens.

Companies that offer new sights are as follows:

Zylanak- These days I am a Zylanak man, but these are pricey $250-$300 (good news is competition has forced Mr. Zylanak to lower his prices recently.  God bless America!).  I bit the bullet and got one after I discovered how drastically bad sights can effect your scores.  THESE SIGHTS MOVE LIKE SWISS WATCHES!  Like I said, this is what I went to after messing with used Redfields.  Zylanak has just introduced a new model sight made especially for AR15’s, hot on the heels of the RPA.  A REAR BASE IS BUILT IN…CHA-CHING!

NOTE:  I hung out with Mr. Zylanak at the Nationals, he really seemed to be regular guy and was quite interested in improving his sights.  Mostly, he seemed to be a gun buff who liked to bullshit and talk guns and Highpower.

RPA-  These are beautiful pieces of machinery, also pricey ($250-$300).  I have never gauged one, but I would be shocked if these are not equal to the Zylanak in precision.  Two big points of the RPA are the fact that the windage wheel is on the right (like a GI sight), and they were the first to offer a sight with the Weaver style base built in.  Imported by OK-Weber.

Anshultz-  I have seen some custom AR15’s set up with Anshultz smallbore rear sights.  I asked Carl at Champion Shooters about this.  He said the sight might not have enough windage for Highpower.  I am not sure that is true.  I think this sight would work fine.  These sights mount using a .22 sized scope rail, so some kind of adapter would need to be acquired to go from the Weaver to the small rail.

Warner-  I know nothing about these.  David Tubb uses this sight, I guess this proves that are effective.

Rear sight aperture-  this can be as simple as disc that you buy with a fixed aperture or as nice as a Anshultz or Gemanne adjustable iris.  All of which are available at Champion Shooters.

Rear sight base-think of this a set of scope mounts for the rear sight.  Bases are available from different sources.  I think this item is really quite expensive for what you get, but until I get another source, I guess we are stuck.  My current base is the Derrick Martin and costs $75.  I think the next one will be a Zylanak ($75) which is available through Champion Shooters Supply.

NOTE:  As I said before, both the RPA and Zylanak are available in AR15 specific models with the Weaver base built in.  The cost for the sight remains the same, so buy the AR15 model if you are buying new.  $75 bucks in the old pocket!

Front globe-  the first globe that I acquired is a Redfield International that I found in a guy’s junk bin at a local gunshow for $20.  It is a full size diameter (bigger than a smallbore style like an Anshultz-more on this).  I took it home and cleaned it up, it is really quite nice.  The Redfield quality is as good (better) than anything else offered today in a full sized diameter.  If you find one at a gun show (anything that says Redfield on it), buy it.  Buy cheap, especially if it looks like crap.  Paint is real cheap.

The story on new globes:

Tompkins-  this is a full sized diameter offering with a shooting level built in.  It comes with a full set of molded plastic discs.  You didn’t hear it here, but these are very poorly made.  Cheap though ($35).  Offered by Champion Shooters.

Anshultz-  other than a used Redfield, (if you are dead set on a bigger circle in your sight picture) this is the way to go.  All the really cool accessories are made for the Anshultz.  Make sure to get the model made to fit a Redfield style base!

Front globe base w/ riser-  this is the equivalent to a “barrel Band” for an AR15.  These are available from the same people who make rear sight bases.

Derrick Martin-this might be the one to look at for a .92” diameter barrel.  For the life of me I cannot figure out why one no one offers this as a standard size.  This is the unit on my current rifle.  $75 + $10 for custom diameter.

Zylanak-  very similar to the Martin but smaller and lighter.  I like this one better than the Martin and it is $10 cheaper now.  There are a bunch of barrel diameters offered.  Available at Champion Shooters.

NOTE:  There is no need pay more than $75 for a front base.  There are other available for more but the Martin and the Zylanak are really great.

RPA-  this is the top of the line.

Front globe insert-  this can be as simple as the stamped plastic or metal discs or as complex as the super neato Anshultz and Gemanne adjustable.  In a nutshell this is what you see inside the globe that indicates the target.  The German adjustable variety is extremel expensive at well over $100.  Go for the cheap (or free) kind for now.

Cutting the float tube for a handstop slide-  this isn’t absolutely necessary to start.  If your rifle came with a sling stud on the front, attach          your sling to it go shoot.  If you’re bored and are project oriented, here is the garage method.  I don’t have a machine shop.

My direct experience, so far, is with the Armalite NM, Kreiger-Milazzo, JP Enterprises, and the Compass Lake. All of these triggers are touted as two-stage triggers except for the JP, which is a single stage. Actually, all of the AR-15 two-stages I have seen are actually long pull single stages with a secondary trigger spring that acts through some outside mechanical means. This two-stage effect has been achieved through different means.

The Armalite and the Kreiger-Milazzo are essentially the same geometry, and use a clever copy of the US military double hammer hook which is found in the M1 Garand and M1A. The sear is moved from the front of the trigger, which is the standard AR-15 geometry, to the rear-top of the trigger. The disconnector is also moved to the back of the trigger. Basically, the primary sear starts in contact with the hammer hook and is only under the tension of the trigger spring until the back of the hammer contacts the front face of the disconnector (at the rear of the trigger), which, of course, is also spring loaded. At this point the pull weight becomes a summation of the trigger spring and the disconnector spring. The only real difference is that the Milazzo is adjustable without cutting.

The Compass Lake system accomplishes the same two-stage effect in a different way. Basically, this system is based on the stock AR-15 trigger. It uses a modified trigger, hammer and safety assembly. In short, from my observations, the hammer hook has been modified to fix the over-camming effect of the hammer in the first stage in the mil-spec arrangement. The sear geometry has also been modified, I think. The real unique part is the new safety assembly.

The CL safety has added overtravel and creep adjustments. The two-stage effect is the result of a spring loaded detent that acts on the back of the trigger. It is really the same concept as the rear hammer hook type two-stages, in that the second stage results from the summation of the primary trigger spring and the detent spring in the safety. The results are really quite smooth and predictable. The two-stage is also fully adjustable and is not very complex. Second stage weight and engagement are independently adjustable. The first stage weight, as usual, is a function of the primary hammer spring.

This can be a really good system for “DCM” rules, because the primary trigger spring can really be loaded up by bending the feet down creating more tension. Most of the pull weight can be moved to the first stage when a minimum pull weight is required by the rules.
This system is also bad, in my opinion, because the second stage has to have creep. It is inherent in the design! If creep were to be adjusted out of the second stage, the second stage would disappear! True, in a really good trigger job, this is minimized, but I don’t see how it can last because the tolerance is so tight! Usually what happens is that some creep is built in to be on the safe side.
A two-stage design has a lot of moving parts, all of which wear. Armalite has tried to convince everyone that they can get away with not having adjustments on their trigger, don’t you believe it!

Just for the record:

• I do not like the Armalite. I will never, ever pay for a match trigger that is not adjustable without cutting. The instructions that Armalite provides for “adjusting” the creep out of the second stage (which is impossible) says that you stone on the hammer hook. Well, the hammer hook is $75 and few thousands too far, well…
• The Milazzo is sweet, but no better that the Compass Lake.
• I have few comments about the way the size of the adjustment screws on the Compass Lake, but other than that, I think the Frank White system is the best-buy in the two-stages, by far.
• Compass Lake triggers are immediately available. Bonus!
• This whole idea the Milazzo has some kind of rights to their “design” is very suspect. The whole double hook system is well used. Adjustable triggers are also very common, I find it very hard to believe that the U.S. patent office would say the Milazzo’s adjustment screw was unique. (I am in the process of applying for a patent right now, for a piece of machinery I designed).
• I ordered a Jewel two-stage in November of 1998, still no word. I Bet their product is exceptionally good, but who gives a shit! Don’t get me wrong, this is no fault of Jewel. It is not their fault their product has so much demand. I am sure they would love to sell me a trigger, me and about a million other guys.

The king of the AR-15 single stage is JP Enterprises. Others do exist, like the Derrick Martin, which is supposed to be quite good, but the JP can be purchased just about anywhere. The JP is also very common as an OEM match-trigger system, and can be had from just about any AR-15 manufacturer (Note: the JP 4 ½ lbs. trigger in the Ghogkiller’s DPMS “DCM” rifle is as sweet as mine, and I spent four hard hours and two disconnectors on mine). I got one of mine from Midway for goodness sake! The other one I did for my match gun was purchased directly from JP, which I highly recommend. One phone call and I had my fire control system in two days.

The JP can be had in degrees. One could purchase the trigger only for $99 and use the stock hammer, pins and springs. This is what I have on my service rifle and I think this is all you need for the 4 ½ pound setup. Mine has been rock solid. For a match rifle I recommend the fire control system kit for $169 direct from JP. This includes the trigger, match springs, oversize moly receiver pins, and the speedlock hammer. John at JP says he matches these parts when he makes a kit. My match rifle breaks like a bolt gun trigger at 2 ½ lbs. using very conservative settings. If you like, overtravel can be completely eliminated, I like just a tetch’ of overtravel. Creep is non-existent.

This system is drop dead reliable.  I have never had a double as a result of the trigger. (Little advice: if you blow some primers, look underneath the trigger very carefully. I mean very carefully!

A crisp 4 ½ pounds does not feel like 4 ½ pounds.

If the trigger breaks exactly the same every time, your finger will get smart quick. I have noticed no advantage of moving a first stage through 3 ½ pounds over pre-loading a single stage 3 ½ pounds with my finger.

Less moving parts, always good over the long haul.

The only cutting required for fitting this system is done to the OEM disconnector, which can be had at a gun show for $4. The fire control system comes with an extra. If you screw it up, no harm, no foul.

The back of the trigger must be cut to fit the safety, but this fit has no ultimate effect on the quality of break. Go slow and this is no problem. I recommend that the safety be kinda’ hard so that the trigger is held securely. The reset on the JP is very short.

Adjustable from the top for sear engagement (creep) and overtravel. Pull weight is a function of the trigger and hammer springs.

Instructions for installation are second to none and John can help over the phone.

I think the single stage triggers have gotten a lot of bad talk because most of the Highpower shooters started on the .30 caliber’s. A lot of guys want their AR’s to feel like an M1A. I have heard gunsmiths say a lot of uninformed things about the new single stage triggers that are a leftover from the days of stock trigger jobs. Let me just say, the disconnector function on a JP trigger is just as good as the disconnector function on a Milazzo. When both are properly timed, a disconnector is a disconnector. I have seen no evidence that one trigger outlasts another, there are many good specimens to be had.
I think that one thing to look for is adjustability. Just face the fact that bearing surfaces wear and will need to be adjusted eventually. I haven’t touched my JP’s since they went in both my rifles, but I do know that I could add a ¼ turn of sear engagement if I need to, and it would only take about two minutes to do.

I comment on my triggers:

I was at Perry this year looking for my friend Junior who was shooting in leg match in the Nationals (never did find him). I had made a point to get to Perry during Highpower week so I could see all the cool AR-15 stuff in commercial row. I was in talking to my friend Carl who owns Champion Shooter’s Supply. I just happened to step into his shop when Mr. Zylanak of Zylanak Sights walked in to do some business with Carl. We started shooting the poop a bit and I asked him some questions about my Zylanak sight that was on my match rifle. I told him that it was out in the truck and he wanted to check it out. No sooner than I had the rifle out of the case, he asked if I wanted to buy a Jewel trigger. I told him that I was very happy with my JP. One pull of the trigger and he was in agreement that there was no reason to switch. The Jewel was no better!

I get the same response about my service rifle trigger, no one believes it is 4½ pounds! If this makes any sense, I think that the low duration of force required to break an extremely crisp trigger feels lighter than a lighter trigger with any hint of creep. Pay attention to quality of the break not the quantity.

To conclude my little article, I will just say that the AR-15 trigger mechanism is somewhat limited in its current configuration. That is, in relation to a bolt gun trigger. The problem is that the pull weight of the trigger is heavily dependent on the tension in the hammer spring. The force present in the hammer directly acts on the sear. This same spring is also directly related to lock time. The most positive way to lessen the trigger pull weight can be had by lightening the hammer spring. The problem is you just created another problem related to lock time and primer strike. JP Enterprises does address this in their fire control system. The hammer spring they supply is much lighter than OEM, but so is the speedlock hammer! This is how they easily achieve a 3 lb. trigger. I do not know if lock time is reduced with the JP hammer, but I do know the trigger weight is reduced by a few pounds with substitution of the JP spring.